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“If it’s not too unseemly, I’d like to gush a little. It was sensational in every way – the taste of the food and wine, the sight of the Matterhorn, the smell of a wood-burning stove. My previous best ever Saturday lunch took place about three years ago and involved Michelin stars, so congratulations for knocking that off its perch. Fabulous. Here endeth the gush.”

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